Gateway to a Wonder
Tracy Bromwich
In the Spring 2015 Competition of Babywearing Weavers we were asked to find inspiration in one of the Seven Wonders of the World. I chose to work with the Taj Mahal. I found it fitting both as a symbol of love and as a source of wondrous geometric motifs that could inspire a weave structure. Specifically, I found my inspiration in the Darwaza-i Rauza, or Great Gate, of the Taj Mahal.
The Darwaza-i Rauza stands at the north of the entrance forecourt to the Taj Mahal and provides a transition between the worldly realm of the bazaars outside and the spiritual realm of the gardens within. The structure is made of red sandstone and features a central pointed arch that forms a vaulted space. Within this space the color of the sandstone is a rich gradient of color - bright orange along the edge of the arch and deep purple within the depths of the vault. Superimposed upon this gradient of color is a tracery of incised painting with elaborate geometric forms. My primary inspiration for this project was this combination of gradated color and the contrast of a light, lacy geometric pattern.
DW (formerly Darwaza) is an exploration of subtle shifts in color and geometric weave structures. The warp is approximately 50% Egyptian cotton/50% cotton and combines shades of peach with red, burgundy, purple and plum. Working with a straight-draw eight shaft threading, I experimented with a range of weaving drafts, changing the tie-up and treadlings to produce many different weave structures.
One of the weave samplers I created when testing weave structures
After sampling a variety of weave structures, I chose 4 to work with based on the material characteristics of the cloth they produced and their geometric patterns. For the most part, I used peach/apricot toned yarns for the weft to create the most contrast with the warp. This collection introduces a new fiber - a lovely silk/cotton blend. It also includes two hand-dyed yarns - the hemp/cotton blend was tub-dyed by me.
The Wefts
wefts in waiting
wefts, from left: light peach cotton, apricot organic cottolin, apricot merino/silk, melon cottolin, hand-dyed melon hemp/cotton, mauve egyptian cotton, hand-dyed persimmon silk/cotton
The Weaves
Serrure 1 weave from top: light peach cotton weft, mauve Egyptian cotton weft, apricot organic cottolin weft
Serrure 1 The weave structure for this wrap provides a subtle geometric interest. A fractured diamond interlacement can be discerned along with the shadow of an extended zig-zag pattern that runs lengthwise. This zig-zag was a lovely surprise - a characteristic that was not evident in the draft but was a delight to discover when weaving. It is a dense, thick weave that feels lush and cushy. I am calling it Serrure 1 in reference to the source (the draft can be found in Atlas de 4000 Armures by Louis Serrure). The wraps woven in this structure feature hemmed rails.
Posselt 1 weave from top: light peach cotton weft, melon cottolin weft
Posselt 1 This wrap has a light and airy weave that is textured and cuddly. It has a distinct right and wrong side, with the wrong side being more weft dominant and the right side allowing the full range of color of the warp to read clearly. I am calling the structure Posselt 1 in reference to the source (the draft can be found in Dictionary of Weaves Part 1 by E.A. Posselt). The draft was one of two I used the required all 16 treadles on my loom!
Plaited twill from top: light peach cotton weft, hand-dyed melon hemp/cotton weft, apricot merino/silk weft, hand-dyed persimmon silk/cotton weft
Plaited Twill The weave structure for this wrap is a tiny plaited twill. Simple and elegant, it feels a bit lighter in hand and is moldable with a lovely drape. The two sides of the wrap differ in texture and appearance - one side being smooth and the other a bit more grippy. I particularly love the feel of the hemp version of this wrap! The weaving draft comes from A Handbook of Weaves by G.H. Oelsner.
Posselt 2 weave light peach cotton weft
Posselt 2 This wrap has a dense, supportive weave. It has a distinct right and wrong side, with the wrong side being more weft dominant and the right side allowing the full range of color of the warp to read clearly. I am calling the structure Posselt 2 in reference to the source (the draft can be found in Dictionary of Weaves Part 1 by E.A. Posselt).
One thing to note about this weave: the draft was a complicated and inconsistent 16-treadle pattern that pushed my abilities of concentration. In the process of weaving, there were some missteps that result in a break in the pattern. These are noted in the listings for these wraps, are purely cosmetic and do not compromise the integrity of the wrap.
The Wraps
All the wraps available are shown below. Each features a custom middle marker printed specifically for this project. दरवाजा is "Darwaza" in Urdu and translates to "gate".
DW Light Peach Cotton Weft (the competition piece)
Approximately 265 grams/meter^2
4.1 meters $465
DW Mauve Egyptian Cotton Weft
Approximately 275 grams/meter^2
4.8 meters $552
DW Apricot Organic Cottolin Weft
Approximately 275 grams/meter^2
4.8 meters $552
DW Light Peach Cotton Weft
Approximately 275 grams/meter^2
4.45 meters $489.50
DW Melon Cottolin
Approximately 290 grams/meter^2
4.35 meters $500
DW Light Peach Cotton Weft
Approximately 275 grams/meter^2
4.85 meters $509.25
DW Melon Hand-dyed Hemp/Cotton Weft
Approximately 285 grams/meter^2
4.5 meters $513
DW Apricot Merino Wool/Tussah Silk Weft
Approximately 250 grams/meter^2
5.1 meters $612
DW Persimmon Hand-dyed silk/cotton Weft
Approximately 225 grams/meter^2
3.8 meters $456
DW Light Peach Cotton Weft
Approximately 300 grams/meter^2
2 meter remnant $199.50, second quality 3.6 meter $321
Anyone holding a stalk-free pass is welcome to get in touch with me to reserve the wrap of their choice for purchase prior to the listing. All remaining wraps will be listed on my website at a designated time - to be announced shortly on my Facebook business page. If you have any questions, please feel free to message me through Facebook. Please be aware that we are currently out of town for a wedding so communication might be slowed. Thanks!